Crossing into Kyrgyzstan at the dawn of spring feels like stepping into a land just waking from a long sleep. The mountains are still wrapped in snow, but the sun shy and soft, has begun to melt the ice. Rivers start to flow again, the highland pastures slowly turn green, and the air is crisp with new beginnings. It’s a season of contrasts: winter’s silence and the first birdsong, frozen ground and the first wildflowers.